El Capitan
Dihedral Wall February 1972

by Jerry Yesavage, Copyright 1996

(yesavage@stanford.edu)

These are photos from a climb done in February 1972 with Dan McHale up the Dihedral Wall on El Capitan (El Cap) in Yosemite National Park, California, USA. For more information suggest 1964 edition of Steve Roper's A Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley.

Tools of the Trade Circa 1972

Not many cams or nuts in this assembly. In 1972 it was chromemoly.

View from the Base

Looking up from the start of the climb. Fixed 4 of 6 pitches up to the first triangular roof.

Over the Roof

Over the roof at dawn on Day 1. Follow the haul rope to get an idea of the angle.

Empty Space on the Other Side of the Roof

Empty wall with skyhook moves above the roof. Loosened a flake here.

Cleaning the Black Dihedral

View the black dihedral on the way to "The Ledge" where the first night was spent.

View Down from about 1000 feet

Rockfall area (white spot in upper right hand corner) gets smaller still as you go up.

Continuing up Another Dihedral

Nailing perfectly designed for people who are left-handed.

Moving off the Flake.

A few moves horizontally.

View from maybe 1500 feet

Rockfall area gets smaller still as you go up.

Awkward Crack Continues

It just keeps on going all day long. Near sunset.

Night Falls

Bivy in hammocks at top of pitch 16.

More of the Same

You'd think the crack might stop at some point. Day 3.

View from about 2000 feet

Target area gets smaller still as you go up.

Windy near the top Day 3

Summit in storm Day 3.5

Slept on Thanksgiving Ledge and left left excess water there (along with many others) and proceeded to the top in rain and snow. Walked back down the Yosemite Falls trail.